FREQUENCY SPECTRA AND SURFACE WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTIONS BASED ON THE MEASUREMENTS OF SAKHALIN ISLAND

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Abstract

Spectral characteristics of long-term measurements of surface sea waves off the coast of Sakhalin Island by bottom pressure stations are analyzed. The shapes of frequency spectra in the wind wave range demonstrate great diversity and variability. The frequency of sea state conditions are determined in terms of the parameters of the frequency spectrum width and wave nonlinearity taking into account the change in the dimensionless parameter of depth at the measurement point. A significant decrease in the probability of high waves with increasing spectrum width, as well as with an increase in the ratio of the characteristic wave amplitude to depth or with an increase in the Ursell parameter is shown. The result is most clearly manifested when estimating the spectrum width through the Goda parameter.

About the authors

A. S Tregubov

HSE University; Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences

Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

A. V Kokorina

Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences

Email: a.kokorina@ipfran.ru
Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

A. V Slunyaev

HSE University; Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences

Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

E. G Didenkulova

HSE University; Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences

Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

A. I Zaitsev

Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences; Special research bureau for automation of marine researches of the Far Eastern branch, Russian Academy of Sciences

Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia

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